Dick Dowling Day

What a day! My first introduction to historical battle reenactments and all things LOCAL! First, let me begin by saying that those who planned, volunteered, and participated in this event did a wonderful job. I can only guess at the enormous preparation something like this takes.

I left the house early—at 7:30am—as I wanted to check out another site that had been on my radar since my WWII oral history lecture. I drove to Texas Point to see the remains of the defense battery, which had last been used between 1898 and 1945. The gun had since been removed and little still exists except for the cement circle mount that it once sat upon. (A quick note to anyone wishing to make the journey down to Texas Point: the road is nothing more than old crumbled bricks and cement. To take a car would be a real adventure in my opinion.)

After taking a few photos of the Sabine Lighthouse with both my regular camera and my new Sony Handycam Extended Zoom Camcorder, I headed to Dick Dowling Park. As I drove into the park, passing the flags and white tents set up by the reenactors, I found myself imagining that fateful day when Lieutenant Richard William Dowling commanded 40+ Irish dock hands to victory over a 6000-strong Federal invasion force.

I had heard bits and pieces of the story, but I had never really delved into it until I learned about my favorite actor of that time, Mrs. Kate Dorman. On this day, however, I would learn much, much more.

As I parked, I watched as, right behind me, a truck and trailer carried two canons. Another truck followed holding the wagon. Yes, I was early and the actors were setting up, but it still took me to a place that I had not been before—a hundred and forty-nine years back in history.

I walked through the grounds taking in all the sights. One thing I did learn during the day was that the passion these reenactors felt boiled over into their everyday conversations. Most of these people had family who had fought in the war. Some even had family members on both sides. And I guess that last sentence sums up the reality of what this war between brothers was, for it was indeed a family affair.

After the reenactment of the court-martial and the execution of Lt. Elijah P. Allen for desertion, the first battle took place. (Note: I have not found much information on Elijah Allen at the time of writing but will do more research into his story.) The canons roared, and the battle began. By the time the smoke had cleared, the Confederates had the upper hand, but the Federals would get their chance later in the day.

And it wasn’t just the reenactors dressing in the appropriate garb. There were a few people who showed up in dress but who were not a part of the formal festivities. One person in particular was the Woman-in-Mourning. (Note: There were three Women-in-Mourning walking around the grounds that day, but the first caught me off-guard.) As I looked back, I saw a lady dressed all in black. I couldn’t help but picture this woman to be the “Woman in Black” from the novel of the same name by Susan Hill. Fortunately she wasn’t and no harm came to the children of Sabine City, but she was creepy all the same. (Great costume!)

If she sees you its too late? ;)

Speaking of ladies, there were many who dressed according to the fashion of the occasion, and I found it surreal to see them walking through the grounds or sitting near tents. I also felt for them. In 1863 it must have been bad enough enduring the elements in this area but to dress the way they did? I could not comprehend how they could stand the heat.

At 11:30 some people made their way to the statue of Richard Dowling. It was time for the memorial service. The service, hosted by the Jefferson County Historical Commission, served as a remembrance of those who died in this battle.

After the memorial service, Edward T. Cotham, author of the book Sabine Pass: The Confederacy’s Thermopylae, gave us an accurate account of what had happened on that fateful day. To hear him speak of the reality of the crews of the gunships Sachem and Clifton made me think that this day in history had been very different from the earlier skirmishes that had taken place here. Death was apparent and many lost their lives. It was certainly not on the same level as Gettysburg per se, but I believe that a life is precious whether it is one or a thousand.

Finally the time came for the Federals to face a worthy opponent. In October of 1862, a raiding party of 50 came ashore and burned the Confederate’s barracks and stables along with other structures. They confiscated steamboat Captain Dorman’s horse and wagon to transport a howitzer to use against the Rebels, but Capt. Dorman’s wife, Kate, saw what was taking place and would not stay silent as these invaders of Texas pillaged the town. Her rant to the invading army cut deep and, despite all the threats by the Federals, Kate’s hotel, which they declared they would burn to the ground, survived the raid. (Note: I apologize for the audio quality of the video of the reenactment. It would seem we were invaded by another northerner this day—a Canadian front blew in and impaired the sound.)


After the reenactment of Kate and the raiding party, another battle took place. Both sides fought bravely and fiercely, but in the end, all of the fallen would rise from the hallowed ground and prepare to fight another day. And I, of course, will be there when that day comes.

To all those who participated and put in countless hours of preparation to bring us a part of our history and heritage, I salute you. Whether you wore the blue uniform or the grey, whether you were the owner of the Catfish Hotel and cared for your brethren during the yellow fever epidemic as Kate did, you are remembered, as are the hardships you endured.

White Haven

 

Another gem hidden away on Lakeshore Drive in Port Arthur is White Haven. Built in 1915 for Dr. H. D. Morris, an early physician and British Consul, this two-story abode is now owned by the Daughters of the American Revolution (DAR), and maintained by Lamar State College–Port Arthur. Like the Vulsteke House, tours are free to the public (although a $2 donation may be requested), but you need to call ahead since touring is by appointment only.

 

Through the years, the house had changed owners only a few times. In 1919, the Morris family sold it to Clarence Booz and his kin, who lived there until 1942. The house was sold that same year to the last owners, Carl and Stella White.

Stella White was a world traveler and an antique dealer. She acquired many antiques throughout her journeys. Many of the artifacts you see in the house were bought and donated by her. Some noteworthy pieces are a French-made screen previously owned by Empress Carlotta of Mexico (from the 1700s), a candelabra from the Shah of Persia, and all of the fine furniture comes from as far afield as England, China, and France.

Stella lived in the house until her death in 1985, and left the home and all the furnishings to the DAR. Charter member, Ella Young Atwell, subsequently endowed the restoration of the home.

Public tours ($2.00 donation requested). Flexible hours. Please call ahead for information: 409-982-3068

For information concerning private functions, package or group tours, contact:

The Administrator

White Haven

2545 Lakeshore Drive

Port Arthur, Texas 77640

Donations to the home can be made to the DAR-White Haven Endowment at the this  address 2545 Lakeshore Dr. Port Arthur, Texas 77640

Vuylsteke House

 

 

Port Arthur, Texas, has a tendency to hide its precious gems solely on the pages of its numerous brochures and annual tourism publications. Most residents (and ex-residents) have no idea of the great places that the Port Arthur Historical Society has to offer. And, to me, that’s a shame.

In my earlier post, “Pompeiian Villa,” I gave you just a small taste of Port Arthur’s historical places. I uncovered Port Arthur’s next hidden treasure this past week amid torrential rainfall: it is an intriguing home that I believe we could all relate to.

On arrival at the Vuylsteke Home, I was happy, to say the least, that the week-long downpours had decided to take a short break. It gave me just enough time to squeeze in two short tours—the second of which will be discussed at a later date.

 

The Vuylsteke Home was built in 1905 by J.E. Alexander in the space of 75 days for Adrianus Jacobus Maria Vuylsteke. Mr. Vuylsteke had immigrated to the U.S. in 1893 and moved to Texas in 1894. After his marriage to Nettie Minerva White in 1898, they settled in Jefferson County (which was to become Port Arthur). Mr. Vuylsteke was appointed to the Dutch Consulate for Port Arthur in 1906.

In 1908, the Vuylsteke family sold the house to John Tryon, a manager at the Gulf Refinery who would eventually become Port Arthur’s mayor for the period 1917 to 1921. After having had multiple owners, it was moved to its current location, on Lakeshore Drive, renovated, and then used as rental property. Finally, after years of deterioration, the home was bought by the Port Arthur College Foundation and restored in 1986.

While taking the tour, I found this house to be similar to the Galveston homes that I toured in May. It’s just a pleasant place to visit, and a house that I would love to have as my own residence. Enjoy the photos!

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25032584@N05/sets/72157630635215818/

  If you would like to make an appointment to tour this house, please call 409-984-6101. The Vuylsteke Home tour is free, and anyone who loves early SETX architecture won’t be disappointed.

 

Pompeiian Villa

I recently took a tour of the Pompeiian Villa in Port Arthur, Texas. I must say, it is a most interesting place to visit. The tour guide was informative and a joy to listen to. But the experience got me thinking about the history of the place and the players who made the elegant structure what it is.

The Pompeiian Villa is an authentic replica of a 79 A.D. Pompeiian home, built by Isaac Ellwood (the “Barbed Wire King”) in 1900. It was one of three structures planned to be built on the eight-acre stretch of lakefront property in Port Arthur. The second home was John Warner “Bet-a-Million” Gates’ 20-room Georgian Revival mansion, a pre-civil war “Gone with the Wind”-style home with a carriage house at the back. A third home was planned by an investor, Mr. James Hopkins (president of the Diamond Match Company, St. Louis, Missouri), but sadly Mr. Hopkins could not come up with an idea for a suitable structure so the land between the two aforementioned homes was never built upon.

After the Villa was completed, Mr. Ellwood lived there for a year but then sold it to Mr. Hopkins in 1901. Mr. Hopkins loved the house dearly. So much so that he sent for his wife in St. Louis to accompany him to this great abode to live during the winter months. Mrs. Hopkins took the train down from St. Louis, expecting to see paradise. After the train ride, she boarded a carriage and was taken to her new winter home. When she arrived, she saw the great Villa in all its glory—built in muddy marshlands next to a lake. She was not impressed. Without hesitation, she returned to the train station and travelled back to St. Louis without setting foot inside the Villa.

Mr. Hopkins never lived in the Villa but continued to own it for a further two years. During this time, he rented it out to a Mr. James Guffey, who was one of the financiers behind the successful second drilling attempt in the area, which we all know as Spindletop, or the Lucas Gusher. Mr. Guffey also constructed the first oil refinery in Port Arthur.

In 1903, Mr. Hopkins traded the Villa to Mr. George Craig in exchange for $10,000 worth of Texas Company stock, which represented 10 percent of the newly formed company. The Craig family lived in the Villa until 1946. During that time, the Craigs kept the Villa true to its original design and, aside from doing routine maintenance and painting, did not change a thing. The Craigs then sold it to Captain Arne Pederson , who occupied it for 19 years.

In 1965, the Villa’s future looked bleak. It had been on the market for twelve years, for five of which it had lain vacant, and there were no buyers. It had deteriorated much since its glory days and was even in danger of being torn down. Luckily, the demolition never happened thanks to the Port Arthur Historical Society’s purchase of the Villa for $25,000. Years of renovation followed, and the Villa was opened to the public in the early 70s.

As you tour the Villa, you notice that each room has a different theme. This adds to the rich history that Isaac Ellwood created so long ago in the marshlands of early Port Arthur. There are many pieces of art, relics, and furniture, which have been donated to the museum over the years. The Pompeiian Villa is the sole surviving beacon of Arthur Stilwell’s “Dream City,” and a definite treasure to our area.

For touring information see below:

1953 Lakeshore drive Port Arthur, Texas

Telephone # 409-983-5977

Hours: As of August 18, 2014, Pompeiian Villa hours will be Monday thru Friday 1pm – 5pm.

Please visit the Museum of the Gulf Coast’s website for special Saturday hours at the Villa

Group tours by reservation.

Admission: $2.00

38th Galveston tour of homes

On the opening day of the 38th Annual Galveston tour of Homes, the weather could not have been any better. It was a bit warm on this May spring day but the nice breeze made up for it. From Port Neches I made my way across the Bolivar Peninsula admiring all the newly constructed beach houses that have been replaced since Hurricane Ike devastated all of Southeast Texas September 13, 2008. I stand in awe of all the people of our little space on the planet and how they faced their devastation head on. Most here not only returned their life and property back to what it was before but enhanced and bettered their way of life. That goes out to those affected by that hideous storm.

I arrived at the ferry just after 9:40 am. Luck seemed to be on my side as I drove up and was motioned to board the vessel. The tour would start at 10am sharp and I didn’t want to be late because I knew it would be crowded on the first day. I wanted to see as much as I could because I didn’t know if I would be able to finish the tour the following week.

The ferry ride was swift. I disembarked and headed to the first home. While driving I realized I had the ticket, the receipt for the ticket, but I had no idea where the homes were, nor the addresses of any of them. Oops, luckily the android phone deemed itself worthy and I found the closest address to begin my tour.

Note that I will only be giving the historic names and not the addresses since all the properties are privately owned. If you want an in depth version please go to their website at: http://www.galveston.com/ghfhomestour/

At the beginning of the tour I found myself waiting in line for a short time, with no fault to the volunteers. There were plenty of anxious people ready for the tour and I admit I was one. I had taken the tour the year before and was utterly hooked into the history of what these precious dwellings had to offer. Of course this year’s tour was no exception.

The August J. Cottage was built in 1897 by its namesake. August was a real estate broker of German descent. I enjoyed the nice porch, the stained glass, and just a feeling of brightness the house emitted. The current owner has done a wonderful job of keeping this property grand and it was a joy to visit.

The next treasure on the list was the Josephine Drouet House, circa 1898. This house was built after the death of her husband Sebastian Drouet. Through the years it had been moved several times finally settling at its current location and having a total renovation in 2005.

Most of the houses on the tour had similar features. The longleaf pine floors, the glass window atop of doors (This always makes me think back to my time spent at St. James school, Port Arthur, Texas), the stained glass, and the brightness of the rooms. With every tour I found myself yearning to relocate or at least to have a second residence, one day, on the island. This unfortunately is a dream that will not be met in the near future but one can dream can’t one?

My next tour was through the Louis and Magaret Wenzel Cottage circa 1870, and the Robert and Carrie Palliser House, circa 1895. Both were a pleasure to walk through. I noticed on these tours that the first floor was usually referred to as the basement. Most of the residents made excellent modern hideaways out of their basements/ first floor to which I was envious.

As I waited in line for the next tour, I flipped through the Galveston Historic Homes Tour Guide. I learned about their Bike tour, their Tree Sculpture tour (Which I have never taken but have seen some of the sculptures and it would be a tour worth taking). I learned there would be Mint Julep’s at the Menard House on May 12th. At the end of the page there was small advertisement for the 1838 Menard House. Galveston’s oldest surviving residential home will offer ticket holders a Special $5 only on May 5th.

I have been trying to explore the Menard house for over a year and was determined to accomplish my goal, but first the Christian Wolfer Tenant Cottage, circa 1891 was to be explored.

As the line drew nearer I finally made it to the porch. The volunteer explained the history of this house and the recent devastation it sustained from Hurricane Ike. The house was moved 17 blocks to its current location and was completely restored in February 2010. This house is known as the Green Revival House. The guide stated that this house was the first historic building in the nation to be certified LEED for homes platinum. (LEED= Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design)

I was told before entering I needed to take my shoes off. The current owners didn’t want people walking through their abode with shoes. I do know some cultures do not allow the wearing of shoes in their homes, but in this case the volunteers all had shoes on.  The floors were the same as the others. There were no expensive rugs or anything that I saw that my shoes would be detrimental toward. All the same it was a short tour and found it odd to walk through a house with 9 other people shoeless. While writing this on Saturday the 12th I can only gather that the owners of this dwelling were having an anxiety attack with all the rain that has fallen on a tour day. That’s a bunch of wet feet.

As I put my shoes on and hurried to my truck I was truly excited for my next endeavor. The Menard House is the oldest house in Galveston and a dwelling rich Texas history. It was built in 1838 by Michel B. Menard, one of the founders of City of Galveston.  The house was used as his residence and office for real estate purchases. It is now rented out for public events and open to self-tour on certain occasions, such as days of lectures, or other events in the nearby Hall.

One of the pluses of this house was being a self-tour. Since it was off the beaten path and not part of the regular home tour there were no lines. I would pay an extra $5 extra for no lines. Another plus was how they have put some of the historical artifacts on display along with a description of the period.

To my knowledge there are no normal hours of operation for set tours. In all, this house for me was a joy that I intend to learn more about its history and attend their lecture series starting in June.

One thing I did find out on this tour was that as the old song goes 1 may be the loneliest number but it will get you to the head of the line on a tour. I was the 15th person back in line waiting to tour the John L. Darragh Tennant House, circa 1886, I heard one of the volunteers say there was room for one more on the current tour. She called out for anyone touring alone. Luckily I fit the bill and skipped ahead, saving me at least 30 minutes.

This was my second favorite house of the tour. There is also a gated park/garden accompanying this house. Here I found out the woes of a volunteer for this type of tour. I have volunteered a few times and do not have the knowledge of how things work yet. I do know business, and what happens when employees/ volunteers don’t show up. The whole scenario at this house was a bit tense. Volunteers, if I have gotten my facts straight, were to do 3 hour shifts. Let’s just say you have 6 volunteers at any time in the house. This would make 12 volunteers per house times 10. That would make the total of at least 120 volunteers. This is a huge task to put on and it makes me appreciate the planning, the volunteers, and the sheer determination of putting on a tour on this scale.

Upon leaving the Darragh Tennant House I looked at the map and noticed the next house was 2 and a half blocks away. I proceeded to walk to the next property, which was the Louis and Anita Runge House circa 1916. This house was a bit more elegant than the previous 8 that I viewed.

As I walked up the stone steps to the front door I noticed a volunteer becoming worried about one particular visitor for the next tour. This woman was making her way in line aided by a walker. He knew that she would have trouble maneuvering through the house and took it upon himself to find a solution to help her.

Note that this tour, although environmentally friendly really cannot possibly be made easily accessed for the handicapped. One must remember that these are private dwellings and built in a flood zone. Yes there are stairs and plenty of them.

The woman was on the next tour after me and she did see the house thanks to her will, determination, and the help of a caring volunteer who made it a point to help her up and down the many steps and stairs of this property to explore this amazing home.

After the tour I walked back through the neighborhood to my truck and headed for the final destination on my tour. The McKinney- McDonald House circa 1890 is a restoration in progress. The Galveston Historical Foundation purchased this house in January of 2011 to save it from being demolished because of major fire damage in 1993. It has been vacant and unattended since. It has been gutted, except for the spiral staircase that did not seem to be damaged in the fire, and ready for restoration. I hope to see this property after the restoration is complete.

This concluded my tour of historical Galveston. I felt touring 10 houses in 6 hours was pretty amazing feat. My only regret was that I could not do a pictorial tour and show all the amazing things that these owners have done with the properties, but I do respect their privacy on the matter and thank them for inviting us into their houses (Even if we were not a loud to wear shoes in a certain property.)

As I drove down Broadway, headed to Houston, something caught my eye. While passing Galveston’s historic cemetery I was stunned by all the brilliant color protruding out amongst the old graves. I quickly turned the truck around and headed straight for the cemetery. I don’t know who planted the wildflowers throughout the cemetery, but as you will see in my attached photos, it was nothing more than wonderful. What a way to end a great day of rediscovering some of Southeast Texas’ historical past.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25032584@N05/sets/72157629616094300/

If you are interested in taking the tour or other tours the Galveston Historical Foundation has to offer please visit their website for details at:

http://www.galvestonhistory.org